We've been having some hot and humid weather here which is making drying oil based paint rather time consuming. Anyway, two and a half days later I was able to paint the burst on the top.
It turned out better than expected.. Since I sort of expected to ruin it doing this part.
Sunday, 31 August 2014
Saturday, 30 August 2014
Paint 3
I put a second coat of black on. It's been 24 hours and still quite tacky. I took the masking off before the black hardened all the way.
Next step is to paint the burst pattern on the top. I'll wait for the black to be nice and hard before I do that since it will have to lay flat on the back to do it. I'll also paint the bridge and pickup holes in black too, they won't really be visible but no point leaving the little bit that is visible wood colored. I'll paint those with a little brush.
Thursday, 28 August 2014
Paint 2
The sanding sealer went pretty well. I put 3 coats and sanded it a little rough with 400 grit to get ready for the paint. I applied the first coat of black to the sides and back and it's looking pretty sharp.
I brought my old template out of retirement and used it to mask off the top.
The black paint is matt finish so that the clear coat will stick better. I think that makes sense.
Update:
A few more pictures by special request. I will post some more after the next coat of black.
I brought my old template out of retirement and used it to mask off the top.
The black paint is matt finish so that the clear coat will stick better. I think that makes sense.
Update:
A few more pictures by special request. I will post some more after the next coat of black.
Wednesday, 27 August 2014
Paint
I finally took the strings off again along with all the hardware. I found some wood dye at Lee Valley as well as a small can of Sanding Sealer. I've applied both.
This is the general idea of how the dye reacts with the curly maple. this will be sanded with 1000 grit paper and re dyed. The sanding lightens the light stripes and re dying darkens the dark.
The dye came in power form.
And mixed into a real oily soup.
I rigged up this paint shop in the garage using plastic table clothes from the dollar store and some wire. The fret board is masked off with tape.
This is the general idea of how the dye reacts with the curly maple. this will be sanded with 1000 grit paper and re dyed. The sanding lightens the light stripes and re dying darkens the dark.
The dye came in power form.
And mixed into a real oily soup.
I rigged up this paint shop in the garage using plastic table clothes from the dollar store and some wire. The fret board is masked off with tape.
I borrowed this paint gun from my brother who does a little auto painting. My 6 gallon compressor struggled to keep it going. The sanding sealer went on very smooth. Thanks Rob.
Tuesday, 19 August 2014
Play Test
I got the tuners on and strung it up for real this time. I tuned it which took forever and wasn't really that in tune by the time I stopped. I played a few chords though. Take a look.
I discovered that some of my frets need to be pushed in a little more. And its about as comfortable to hold as it looks. But otherwise completely awesome. :)
I discovered that some of my frets need to be pushed in a little more. And its about as comfortable to hold as it looks. But otherwise completely awesome. :)
Fret Board Final
I think the fret board is actually finished.
I filled the gaps will a wood filler from Home Depot
Then scrapped away the excess after it dried.
After that I colored the wood filler with a dark brown sharpie.. I wonder if Gibson does that too..
I made a caveman style fret bender with the wood blocks I made to sand the curve in the fret board. It worked surprisingly well.
I filled the gaps will a wood filler from Home Depot
Then scrapped away the excess after it dried.
After that I colored the wood filler with a dark brown sharpie.. I wonder if Gibson does that too..
I made a caveman style fret bender with the wood blocks I made to sand the curve in the fret board. It worked surprisingly well.
Attaching the frets was a very time consuming process. They fit in quiet snug.
Monday, 18 August 2014
Surface Preparation
The fret board is glued in place and final sanding is just about finished. I just need to put the inlays and frets on the fret board and I think its about ready to paint. And poke some holes for the . I probably forgot something....
The fret board was one of the more simple glue jobs of this project. I left the nut on to mark where the board should start.
I sanded the maple top to 400 grit.The rest was sanded only to 220. Since everything but the top will be painted with a solid color, I'll be able to put a coat or two of grain filler on first. Sanding this beast was quite tedious. If I ever make another guitar it's going to be a rectangle..
The fret board was one of the more simple glue jobs of this project. I left the nut on to mark where the board should start.
I sanded the maple top to 400 grit.The rest was sanded only to 220. Since everything but the top will be painted with a solid color, I'll be able to put a coat or two of grain filler on first. Sanding this beast was quite tedious. If I ever make another guitar it's going to be a rectangle..
Sunday, 17 August 2014
Fret Boarding
I finished cutting out the inlays today and curved out the fret board. It has a 10" radius curve at the nut up to the 9th fret and transitions to a 16" radius up to the 13th fret. Its 16" the rest of the way.
I strung the guitar before putting the curve in the fret board to make sure I didn't sand it down too thin. I put in the picks up too to make sure they fit in properly under the stings. Everything came together pretty great. Looks pretty cool too :)
I made this two sided block to sand out the proper size curves. I wrapped it in 60 grit sandpaper. After the curve was there I hand sanded it up to 220 grit.
Saturday, 16 August 2014
Inlays 3
I spent the past two weeks in Nova Scotia visiting family. I didn't get any work done on the guitar but I did borrow two tools while I was there. A rotary tool from my Dad and an air powered paint gun from my brother. Thanks !
I put the rotary tool to use today and carved out the first of 11 bat inlays. It went fairly well. I cut out a little more then needed as expected, but I'm sure there is some sort of wood filler I can fill in the gaps and stain later.
The rotary tool had a pen-like attachment that worked very well. I started off using a router style base but it was too clunky for this job and decided to free hand it instead.
Here is the 3rd fret inlay in place. You can see there are a few gaps. It looks worse in the picture because the reflection of the flash. The fret board is pretty dark normally and its hard to see the empty space. After I carve out the curve in the fret board I'll come back and put the inlays in permanently and fill the gaps.
Pretty smooth. Looks pretty cool I think.
I put the rotary tool to use today and carved out the first of 11 bat inlays. It went fairly well. I cut out a little more then needed as expected, but I'm sure there is some sort of wood filler I can fill in the gaps and stain later.
The rotary tool had a pen-like attachment that worked very well. I started off using a router style base but it was too clunky for this job and decided to free hand it instead.
Here is the 3rd fret inlay in place. You can see there are a few gaps. It looks worse in the picture because the reflection of the flash. The fret board is pretty dark normally and its hard to see the empty space. After I carve out the curve in the fret board I'll come back and put the inlays in permanently and fill the gaps.
Pretty smooth. Looks pretty cool I think.
Friday, 1 August 2014
Inlays 2
I changed gears on the inlay production. Before buying the pearl I tried to find a synthetic version that would be perfectly flat, cheap and easy to cut. Plastic or something like that. I couldn't find any.
After attempting to use real pearl and it going rather badly I had a new idea. I decided to try to use a pick guard with a pearl finish. I found a strat pick guard on kijiji for 20 bucks. What fun I had cutting it into tiny bats. After cutting them out I got them traced onto the fret board.
Nice new pick guard, about to be cut to pieces.
All the little bats cut and glued to the neck. Some of these are real pearl, you can't really tell the difference unless you look really close. I did end up skipping the 24th fret. Its just too small to squeeze in two little bats. It's the last fret, I'm sure I'll remember where it is.
I traced around the bats as best I could. It's going to be a little tricky trying to carve these holes out later.
Here are the outlines after picking off the bats. This is what I will need to carve out somehow. Maybe not the best way to do this. Did I mention I'm making all this up as I go along?
After attempting to use real pearl and it going rather badly I had a new idea. I decided to try to use a pick guard with a pearl finish. I found a strat pick guard on kijiji for 20 bucks. What fun I had cutting it into tiny bats. After cutting them out I got them traced onto the fret board.
Nice new pick guard, about to be cut to pieces.
All the little bats cut and glued to the neck. Some of these are real pearl, you can't really tell the difference unless you look really close. I did end up skipping the 24th fret. Its just too small to squeeze in two little bats. It's the last fret, I'm sure I'll remember where it is.
I traced around the bats as best I could. It's going to be a little tricky trying to carve these holes out later.
Here are the outlines after picking off the bats. This is what I will need to carve out somehow. Maybe not the best way to do this. Did I mention I'm making all this up as I go along?
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